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What hard water does to laundry
North Dakota State University Extension sums up the symptoms: clothes washed in hard water over time may look dingy and feel harsh and scratchy, and whites gradually take on a grayish tinge. Two things are going on.
- Some of your detergent goes to the water, not the clothes. A University of Idaho Extension bulletin explains that in hard water much of the detergent you add goes to softening the water instead of cleaning, so you need more of it to get the same result. Tide says the same thing in its own dosing advice: people in hard water areas need more detergent.
- Minerals can deposit in the fabric. The American Cleaning Institute (the cleaning-products trade group) says some powder detergents can combine with hardness minerals to form a residue, which shows up as stiff, harsh fabric, faded-looking colors and more wear. GE Appliances calls this deposit limestone (calcium carbonate) and says it forms when calcium in hard water reacts with the sodium carbonate in detergent. Clorox's laundry expert notes it's most noticeable on towels, because of all that surface area, and that it lowers their absorbency.
Not sure your water is the culprit? Test it at home or look it up in your utility's water report. The hardness numbers page converts mg/L, ppm and grains per gallon.
Stripping the buildup: the vinegar soak
The sources that address mineral buildup all point to an acid soak with plain white vinegar, outside the washer:
- American Cleaning Institute: 1 cup (240 mL) of white vinegar in 1 gallon (3.8 L) of warm water, in a plastic container. Soak the item, then rinse.
- GE Appliances: 2 cups of vinegar in 1 gallon of hot tap water for 15 minutes in a plastic container, then wash as usual with regular detergent. GE says not to do the soak in the washer, since the acid can damage a porcelain tub, and calls it a partial restore.
- Clorox: for crusty, stiff towels, soaking in undiluted vinegar (5% acetic acid) can help dissolve the deposits and improve feel and absorbency. Clorox doesn't recommend vinegar as a general stain remover or whitener.
Check the care label first, and test colored items on an inside seam.
Never mix vinegar (or any acid) with chlorine bleach. Rinse soaked items well before they go into a load that uses bleach, and don't run a bleach cleaning cycle in the washer at the same time as a vinegar treatment. The stain removal guide explains why.
Washing in hard water: detergent, dose and temperature
- Prefer liquid detergent, or add a non-precipitating softener to powder. The American Cleaning Institute and GE Appliances both recommend liquid detergent, or a packaged non-precipitating water softener used with powder. ("Non-precipitating" means it holds the minerals in solution instead of dropping them out as solids that can land on clothes.)
- Dose for your water, but don't pile it on. Tide tells hard-water households to use more detergent, within the package directions, and says both under- and overdosing hurt cleaning. Whirlpool warns that using more HE detergent than recommended speeds up residue buildup inside the washer. Use the label's amount for a large or heavily soiled load rather than guessing high, and always use HE detergent in an HE washer.
- Don't overload. Tide says white residue is often a sign of too many clothes for the water, not too much detergent, especially in HE machines that use less water. The American Cleaning Institute also says not to overload.
- Use warmer water when the fabric allows. The American Cleaning Institute suggests the hottest water safe for the fabric. Whirlpool says detergents don't dissolve well below 60°F (15.6°C), especially powders, and recommends liquid detergent for cold washes. GE lists hotter water (about 125°F) as a secondary step that delays limestone buildup.
- Add an extra rinse. Whirlpool suggests a cycle with an extra rinse to flush out leftover detergent.
- Dissolve powder first. The American Cleaning Institute and GE both suggest adding detergent to the water and letting it dissolve before the clothes go in, where your washer allows it.
Keep the washer clean
Residue builds up inside the machine too, and it can redeposit on clothes. Whirlpool recommends running a Clean Washer cycle at least once a month or every 30 washes, whichever comes first, and says homes with hard water may need to do it more often. Its steps:
- Empty the washer and put a washer-cleaner tablet in the drum (not the detergent dispenser), or use the chlorine bleach method in your manual. Whirlpool's alternative is 1 cup of liquid chlorine bleach and warns that more can damage the washer.
- Run the Clean Washer cycle, or the hottest, highest-water cycle if there isn't one. Don't add detergent or other chemicals.
- Leave the lid or door open afterward and between loads so the inside dries.
- Run warm or hot washes some of the time instead of only cold, which Whirlpool says better controls buildup.
Some front-load models have different rules about bleach, so check your owner's manual.
When a softener makes sense
GE Appliances says a home water softener will significantly reduce limestone buildup in the washer and on clothes, and NDSU Extension lists cleaner, softer-feeling clothes and less detergent use among a softener's benefits. NDSU also says to have your water tested and base any treatment on the results. If laundry is your only complaint, the steps above may be enough. If you're also fighting spots on fixtures, a filmy dishwasher or scale in the water heater, see the decision guide, softener vs conditioner and softener sizing.
Sources
- North Dakota State University Extension, “Hard water issues”
- University of Idaho Extension bulletin on laundering in hard water (PDF)
- American Cleaning Institute, “Laundering Problems & Solutions”
- GE Appliances, “Washer Limestone Build-Up”
- Clorox, “Using Vinegar and Bleach in Laundry”
- Tide, “How Much Laundry Detergent To Use”
- Whirlpool Product Help, “Removing Odors from the Interior of a Washer”
- Whirlpool Product Help, “Preventing Detergent from Re-depositing on Clothing”
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